LCD wiring,

[ninthlife]

Hi everyone,

I got a kit from Richard, instead of the assembled unit, and the only thing i am struggling with is the LCD.

I've found a few guides (including this terrible one www.sumpod.com/pages/electronics) and there are differences in all of them.

could someone post a photo of their connections and/or a diagram?

Does the rotary encoder connect to the 16 pin header with the LCD, or to it's own AUX in?

Thanks guys

[ninthlife]

Update, sorry for the double post, but I found this



New question; could I run the contrast (CONTR), to a digital pin an set it via software?

And,

Do I need to tie R/W to ground, or is leaving it floating OK?

and,

I don't want the back light on all the time, do you think i could run that to a pin, and add a timeout to the firmware?

probably getting in over my head here, but hey.

[lochnessi]

Hi

I have the same problem. There are open questions
on the assembling (Sumpod Alu big with 2 heads)

1. LCD + button wiring
2. Heat-bed wiring
3. How to build the build platform
(there are an alu - platform, wooden platform
and [new?] a steel platform.

Thomas

[airtripper]

I have a wiring example in one of my blog post which covers the marlin firmware setup:

airtripper.com/1145/marlin-firmware-v1-basic-configuration-set-up-guide/

The wire diagram shown in the earlier post above is consistent with my setup.

[lochnessi]

thank you for helping...

I have now found a solution that works for the LCD problem:

www.sumpodpro.com/lcd-wiring-and-electronics

My next problem is the potentiometer (input->LCD)
( i got one witch is soldered on a board [not on the
LCD board ] with a 4 pin connector to ramps)

I have found some pics (looks like others got one without
a board) and it seems that it goes to aux-2 (ramps 1.4)
but its hard to idenfify the correct position in this
10-pin aux-2 connector.
My tries to connect it costs 2 arduino boards...
unbeleaveable that this was possible with just a poti
( luck for me: i had 4 arduinos... so 2 left now lol )
i hope to finish the electronics before i ran out of arduinos...

greets
Thomas

[airtripper]

Your potentiometer would be the click encoder I'm presuming.
You will need to check the wiring on the click encoder to make sure they are going to the correct connector pin.
It would be ideal if you could post some pictures so we can see what you have.

My guess is that you are shorting the power pins when connecting the header to RAMPS 1.4 AUX2. the click encoder only needs the ground pin besides the digital pins.
The schematic posted above gives you one pin configuration that the firmware knows about.

Mark

[more3d]

Hi
I have the same problem. I sent an email to Richard ,i pointed out that the connector looks different, what i saw on a picture on Pietes site pancake.io/3e35fd/sumpod. His answer:
"Hi,

change the following in pins.h to

//encoder pins are directly attached
#define BTN_EN1 42 //AUX-2 //[SUMPOD specific]
#define BTN_EN2 40 //AUX-2 //[SUMPOD specific]
#define BTN_ENC 63 //AUX-2 (the click) //[SUMPOD specific]

Attach the encoder with the black pin on aux-2 gnd."
I hope not to many boards have been messed up because of this.
zoltan

[lochnessi]

hi again,

thx for helping.

3 pics:
imageshack.us/photo/my-images/109/b2002.jpg/
imageshack.us/photo/my-images/163/b2001.jpg/
imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/plannj.jpg/
(overview: red = "ready" / blue = "next step" / green = "planned" / i forgot to draw the blue line from the 3 termistors)
+ one question: is it nessisary (for the 11A line) to put
2x 12v wires together? i only have 1 wire at each connector
atm.

now my problems:

looks like the rotary encoder works now but i cannot
check it cause my LCD is possibly damaged now.

My main problem seems to be the endstops. I can
login with pronterface to the sumpod. Marlin works.
All motors work correctly - endstops seems to work
too... but every time i put the endstops in the board
i got problems. I can only connect to the Sumpod if i
switch on the power supply AFTER connecting with pronterface
- otherwise pronterface fail to connect.
Sometimes there is ,after some seconds, a high-frequency noise
from the board and , if i play with the motors then, pronterface
writes "cant write to printer"and usb follow with a disconnect.
(after that the arduino is nearly dead [-> usb cannot connect...]
I have to wait several minutes until the arduino is back in life...)

Looks like the endstops do someting extremly dangerous.
But how? I have only 2 wires ... every one many times checked
with an led + batterie. every one works fine. The 2 wires go to
"S" and "-" ("+" is unused & #define ENDSTOPPULLUPS in config.h
is not disabled. So pullup is active)

Unfortunatly i have tried to connect the LCD (in a moment i
thought that everything works fine). Now i cannot get any chars
on the display (with liquid crystal example ... like before).

greets
Thomas

[more3d]

Tomas!
Maybe your wiring is ok from the Power Supply to the board ,but the right way would be both blue in one of those "V+" on the P.S , and they go in the "+" on the board. Then the bran ones from the "Com" from the P.S to the "-" on the board. Yes i think the motors and heaters needs more power-11A , and the controls using the 5A.
reprap.org/mediawiki/images/e/e3/Rampswire13.svg
Did you put those rubber washers under your board? I think they should be there to prevent short cuts if touching the surface. I just starting to put the printers together . Richard is a strange man. He thinks only electric engineers buying 3d printers. Forest gum ...i don't min to hurt, but I'm hurt...

[lochnessi]

hi more3d,

1. below the board there are 4 big rubber washers (i had
problems with the small ones from richard cause it looks
like they are not big enough to prevent that the board
got contact to the aluminium).

2. From the P.S. there are 2 black cables (each with 3 wires).
One is + and one is - . Forget the colors. Everything is checked
before attaching it. "+ - + -" is the connection and i have exactly
12.02 volts on the "+" wires.

If the P.S. would be wrong installed everything will end in a fire
hasard. But as long as i not attach the endstops i can run it
hours and hours without problems. So i would exclude this
possibility.

3. The future question was do i need 2 wires + and 2 wires - (from the P.S)
at the 11A instead of 1+1 on the MSTBA4 (pin 1+2)
(if heating bed is attached).

greets
Thomas

[more3d]

Those extra wires for the fan.

[fabbersru]

Did the wiring discussed here get sorted out and is there definative location for the wiring diagram yet or do we all need to be Tom Hanks in Dan Brown novel?

[lochnessi]

...maybe...

my pic to the pinout (look post above) was correct.
i have now got everything to work. If there are
questions to this part ask and i will help.

I have a new question now.
It took some days to calibrate every axis
and extruders.
Now , after a good simulation of printing
(yes, unbeleaveable, but first try was close
to perfect), i have tried to print something
but there was nearly no PLA coming out
of the printhead ( a little bid if i set the
hotend temp to 200-230 degrees ).

Mhhhh... what is my mistake

greets
Thomas

Printer: Sumpod Alu with 2 heads

[fabbersru]

OK, Folks, I need some help.

I guess the first issue is that I can understand if I have a LCD contrast pot, or the rotary encoder? It seems I don't have both...what I do have has a small circuit board soldered. Thus, the knob whole in the front of the machine next to the LCD should be for the pot contrast or the encoder? Please enlighten!

The Buzzer in the above drawing. What's the purpose and what are the specs for it?

[fabbersru]

Also have the following questions. The power supply shows 20A but we have 11A and 5 A in. Is this OK and will it not overload the board ?

How to assemble the print bed? lochnessi you had this question it seems you figured it out.

Are the sides of the machine closed? I have two additional large black panels and can't seem to understand where they could fit?

Where have others placed the SD reader?

It seems the fan if mounted on the frame like I think I see in some photos, will only be blowing half, as the other part will be against the frame. Is this as it's supposed to be? Or am I missing something.

Thanks in advance for any help.