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Post by airtripper on Mar 21, 2013 15:17:43 GMT -5
Your potentiometer would be the click encoder I'm presuming. You will need to check the wiring on the click encoder to make sure they are going to the correct connector pin. It would be ideal if you could post some pictures so we can see what you have.
My guess is that you are shorting the power pins when connecting the header to RAMPS 1.4 AUX2. the click encoder only needs the ground pin besides the digital pins. The schematic posted above gives you one pin configuration that the firmware knows about.
Mark
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Post by airtripper on Mar 18, 2013 21:16:53 GMT -5
Printing on to glass has worked very well for me so far and I keep the heated bed at around 60 degrees C throughout printing. I give the glass a good clean with acetone oil free nail polish remover.
I have found that it is important to find the best temperature to extrude each particular filament you have in order to get the best adhesion to the glass. Sometimes if the filament is not hot enough it can warp and become unstuck from the glass.
I have a real of PLA that extrudes best at 190 C while another real extrudes best at 220 C. Unfortunately, a lot of people don't have hotends that are stable and reliable enough over wide temperature range.
I have the MDF Sumpod and have the issue with nuts and bolts coming loose on the X, Y and Z axis. This really upsets by bed levelling efforts. I now plan to replace the MDF axis and hopefully gain a larger printable area in the process.
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Post by airtripper on Mar 18, 2013 20:39:12 GMT -5
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Post by airtripper on Jan 26, 2013 13:20:21 GMT -5
Since I fitted the MK7 gear pulley the printer performance is now where I want it to be. No more filament slipping at all now and printing at 30mm/s. I could go faster but I'll have the people next door complaining about the noise.
I've started experimenting with retraction now, and so far I've increased it to 0.8mm with good results; no stringing at all now.
Your print looks awesome, looks like you have your print close to where you want it finally.
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Post by airtripper on Jan 22, 2013 18:33:58 GMT -5
If I was considering another 3D Printer purchase, I'd be looking at the mendel90 designed by nop head. Awesome looking printer and I've seen it up close while I was at Sheffield. This was a blue colour. The Hot End issue is a problem for 1.75mm extruders. The best hot ends always seem to be in short supply or too expensive to import. 3D printer builders are knocking out their own hot end versions to keep costs down and perhaps not fully understanding what it takes to extrude PLA filament reliably.
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Post by airtripper on Jan 21, 2013 14:47:23 GMT -5
Here's my effort using the new Slic3r 0.9.8. I printed the same model you attempted but only got about half way when a glitch in the domestic power supply halted everything. I had to reduce the size by 80 percent so that it would not be too tall for the printer. I printed the first layer at 30% speed with the rest at 24mm/s at 120% resulting 28.8mm/s. Attachments:
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Post by airtripper on Jan 20, 2013 13:11:07 GMT -5
I've discovered that the J-Head I got was not the 0.4mm nozzle I ordered, I measured 0.5mm. So I've wrote a message to the supplier with my claims to see what they are going to do about it. Until It's sorted, it looks like I'll not be using this nozzle any time soon. Attachments:
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Post by airtripper on Jan 20, 2013 12:54:55 GMT -5
I considered that you might have the click encoder wires connected wrong way round. If not, the click encoder maybe faulty. Internal pull-up resistor issues have not been commonly reported for click encoders as far as I know.
You might check that there's no continuity between the connection pins on the board and the connection pins on the click encoder connector to rule out shorting.
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Post by airtripper on Jan 20, 2013 12:35:43 GMT -5
Support material is for overhangs and won't change anything for infill density. Image below shows what you need to change. Attachments:
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Post by airtripper on Jan 16, 2013 14:18:08 GMT -5
I guess the ideal j-head would be the one from hotends.com, mine comes as the aluminium version. Here's my progress report, I've just got the hot wiring to do now before testing. I've decided to use my own thermistor since I don't know the type they sent me. Attachments:
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Post by airtripper on Jan 15, 2013 15:26:54 GMT -5
They have done well designing that nice piece of kit you have there. I guess the problem with the original design was that the plastic parts would have taken a very long time to print and not be able to keep up with the demand.
What are the specs for the extruder, hot end and filament your using in regard to sizes? And what layer height are you printing?
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Post by airtripper on Jan 15, 2013 15:03:09 GMT -5
The only real issue with the MDF Sumpods is the hotend and extruder. I replaced both from the start and have been getting high quality prints ever since. I think Richard should have gone for the proven 3mm filament extruder and hot head instead of the experimental 1.75mm kit.
I'm working towards getting my Sumpod to rout PDBs and some plastics.
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Post by airtripper on Jan 15, 2013 14:49:23 GMT -5
I got the hot end from ebay from a guy in Denmark, I guess from the design point of view, the spec is not as good as the ones from hotends.com. However, the spec is much better than the offering from china which I advise not to consider. The one I've got uses PTFE tubing instead of machined PTFE rod. Basically, to get 1.75mm, you have to push in a thin tube inside the tube used for 3mm filament. The 1.75mm filament tube goes all the way down to the nozzle tip and there is nothing to hold it in from the top. If I'd have waited a couple of more weeks I might of got this one instead, which is much closer to the ideal spec. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261155683442?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649Anyway, I've made some progress on the bracket to fit mine to the Sumpod Y axis, should have the bracket printed off tomorrow. Attachments:
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Post by airtripper on Jan 13, 2013 23:25:53 GMT -5
Just announcing my latest Blog Post. Marlin Firmware v1, Basic Configuration Set-up GuideSome notes about what settings you need to know to get a basic Marlin firmware configured enough to get a 3d printer working. The notes will focus on the Marlin firmware v1 and will include setting up a click encoder and LCD panel.airtripper.com/1145/marlin-firmware-v1-basic-configuration-set-up-guide/Mark Attachments:
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Post by airtripper on Jan 13, 2013 23:12:04 GMT -5
It might be that your pins.h file needs to be configured to match where you have the click encoder connected to the board.
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