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Post by jamirie on Dec 26, 2012 21:07:23 GMT -5
hmmm... can't find the calibration variables it in the configuration.h file..... neither via ctrl+f. May i should have a look at it again tomorrow-sleepy now
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Post by jamirie on Dec 27, 2012 7:10:10 GMT -5
So i uploaded it to my pod....aaaand the Display has output again But again, i couldn't find the settings for the feeder you mentioned in the Configuration.h file... Where to find it??? As you can see, the heated bed temperature reading says "290°C" in first place (where normally should the hotend thermistor readings be displayed. How to interchange both so i can heat up my hotend again? EDIT: which Baudrate should be used? 115200 or 250000? Attachments:
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Post by airtripper on Dec 27, 2012 8:34:18 GMT -5
The steps per unit settings are at line 168, just change the 48.14 to 67.16.
The firmware baudrate is set to 250000, so set your 3d printer interface software (Pronterface/Printrun) to 250000 baud.
Your thermistor could be shorting, unplug the thermistor to the hot end and check the reading again. You should get 0 on the LCD panel.
It's a good idea to have a second thermistor for trouble shooting. Having a second thermistor means you can confirm two readings before you decide to pull apart the hot end to check wiring.
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Post by jamirie on Dec 27, 2012 8:59:00 GMT -5
Ok, found and changed it Thanks a lot! I saw it was set to 250000 and wondered why some people use 115200? I disconnected the hotend thermistor, even tried T1,T2,T3 but the 290°C still shows up... any further suggestions about it? As i just mentioned- at the time of the official Forum somebody gave me a code for the firmware to interchange both readings....As long as i do not use a heated bed it is ok for me. But as the Forum is gone, i don't know how to get further with this... Where to buy a second thermistor??? I searched heaps of websites, but couldn't find a similar Thermistor... I would buy 5 or 10 of those, cause i have some experimental hotends laying aside Many,many thanks for your effort Airtripper!!!
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Post by airtripper on Dec 27, 2012 9:58:12 GMT -5
I think people use the baudrate that works best with their firmware and interface combination. If you are getting a temperature reading with no thermistor plugged in then you will need to check the ramps board for shorts. T2 will need to be switched on in firmware to get a reading. find the following code to edit: For T1 (Hot end only) #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0 Put the hot end thermistor in to T2 and set the following code to read the thermistor as a heat bed temperature sensor. You may have to use Pronterface to check the bed temperature by ticking the check box at the top of the interface. For T2 #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1 Note the readings for T1 and T2. Hopefully T2 will give something like room temp. Here is the reprap wiki on thermistor types reprap.org/wiki/ThermistorJust google each thermistor type to see what suppliers you get in your area.
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Post by jamirie on Dec 27, 2012 10:56:15 GMT -5
So i found this in the config file, but whatever i type in- it changes nothing (except the stuck temp - had about 400°C Temp reading from the bed after changing ) #ifndef MOTHERBOARD #define MOTHERBOARD 33 #endif //=========================================================================== //=============================Thermal Settings ============================ //=========================================================================== //// Temperature sensor settings: // -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0) // -1 is thermocouple with AD595 // 0 is not used // 1 is 100k thermistor // 2 is 200k thermistor // 3 is mendel-parts thermistor // 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !! // 5 is ParCan supplied 104GT-2 100K // 6 is EPCOS 100k // 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 <----This whole selection, right? #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success EDIT: when i connect via Pronterface, Baud 250000, COM5 it says: Connecting...start Printer is now online. echo: External Reset Marlin: 1.0.0 RC2 echo: Last Updated: 2012-02-25 | Author: erik echo: Free Memory: 5359 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232 echo:Using Default settings: Error: : Extruder switched off. MAXTEMP triggered ! Error:Printer stopped deu to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart!. (Temperature is reset. Set it before restarting)
Maybe cause of the temperature reading problem??? Think i need to get this reading issue out first before proceeding further...
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Post by airtripper on Dec 27, 2012 13:01:30 GMT -5
Ok, what readings do you get with no thermistor plugged into the ramps board at all?
Use the following settings so we can get readings from T1 and T2, but without any thermistor connected.
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
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Post by jamirie on Dec 27, 2012 13:20:23 GMT -5
changed the config file just as you mentioned, uploaded it, unplugged the Thermistor and torn it on results in: Attachments:
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Post by jamirie on Dec 27, 2012 13:53:00 GMT -5
Any suggestion?
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Post by airtripper on Dec 27, 2012 14:01:12 GMT -5
With no thermistor connected you should be getting 0 reading for both T1 and T2.
Your Arduino Mega must be picking up some kind of resistance on your Ramps board to get a resistance measurement for T1 and T2.
Because there is no thermistors connected, it would suggest that there is an electrical short on the Ramps board.
The next step is to examine the Ramps board, check that the solder is not connecting traces it shouldn't.
You could use a continuity tester to check that neighboring pins are not connected on the Ramps board.
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Post by jamirie on Dec 27, 2012 15:38:43 GMT -5
Ok, i check back when i am near my printer. think i will resolder all joints (many of em doesn't look like they are great soldered though...) and try again.
How do i correctly proove there's no short between two solder joints? I do have a continuity tester here, but never ever used it.... So how to check that properly?
kind regards!
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Post by airtripper on Dec 27, 2012 18:10:01 GMT -5
I've just noticed the thermistor socket labels start with T0 and not with T1 as I thought before. I would start with looking at the traces, with a magnifying glass, for the thermistor first before doing any de-soldering. To check continuity you just put the probes on to spots that you think should be connected together or that you think should not be connected together. When using the continuity test feature on my multimeter I get a sound from the speaker whenever the two probes are connected via a circuit or solder joint. If I put a probe on each of the two pins for T0 on the Ramps board, I should not get a sound. If I do get a sound then there must be a short circuit that need to be found. On this reprap wiki page there are ramps images to help you with tracing the traces reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.3Attachments:
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Post by jamirie on Dec 29, 2012 9:34:34 GMT -5
Ok, so i measured the pins/traces around the Thermistor plugs. Just as described in the scheme attached. You can see 2 red Arrows, those pins have connection to each other, altough they shouldn't, right?.... How can i find out whats wrong here??? EDIT: I just saw these pins may however should be connected...i am really not sure though... Sorry- i am a BIIIG NOOB at this case... Attachments:
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Post by jamirie on Dec 29, 2012 12:02:50 GMT -5
So may now i found a short... There is connection between those pins that i think shouldn't be: Attachments:
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Post by airtripper on Dec 29, 2012 13:38:45 GMT -5
Can you post an image of your board? so that we can see the soldering.
Mark
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