|
Post by airtripper on Jan 4, 2013 21:05:43 GMT -5
I think his bank clawed back the cash from Paypal. This is the type of payment where you pay for items by instant bank transfer via Paypal instead of using credit or debit card via Paypal.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 4, 2013 20:54:15 GMT -5
Any hot end that pre-heats the filament before the melt chamber is always going to be a problem with some PLA filament batch types, the 1.75mm variety. The pre-heating causes PLA to swell before the melt chamber which usually causes filament to get stuck. No matter how much configuration you do to the hot end, you will never get rid of that swell. Configuring the hot end with hours of trial and error is about finding that right balance between temperature, feed rate and force that will allow you to keep pushing the filament swell down into the melt chamber until the end of printing. Even when you do get the filament extruding, there are no guarantee that it will not jam before the end of the printing. As soon as you unwrap a new batch of PLA, it's properties start to change and continually change until it's all used up. This reduces the chance of successful extruding repeatability. Hot ends that pre-heat the filament are more suited to ABS than PLA. There are good hot ends that work with 1.75 PLA and these are the ones that do not pre-heat the filament like the type I'm using: airtripper.com/801/hot-end-design-on-3d-printer-extruder/After a lot of effort I finally have a hot end that extrudes PLA on demand. However, the best feed rate I can get is slow, so I'm still looking out for a better hot end. I bought and tested the QU-BD.com MBE Single 1.75mm Extruder V9, it failed, did not get any printing out of it. It swells the PLA filament too much and the swell grips tightly inside the unpolished tube. I've ordered another hot end and this time it is a J-Head MK-IV Hot End 0.4mm Nozzle for 1.75 and 3mm filament www.ebay.co.uk/itm/J-Head-MK-IV-Hot-End-0-4mm-Nozzle-for-1-75-and-3mm-filament-Reprap-Mendel-Prusa-/281030253809?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416eb55cf1If I can print at more than 50mm/s I'll be happy. If you are spending more time configuring than printing it is probably time to get a new hot end. Basically, you should expect to start printing within a few minutes of switching on the printer with the right hot end. I don't think this site needs to be Sumpod specific, so let's see some Rostock Max pictures Highcooley
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 4, 2013 18:57:59 GMT -5
The Sumpod hot end did not work for me at all so I got another one: airtripper.com/801/hot-end-design-on-3d-printer-extruder/I still have a fan for the hot end but I've always connected the fan to 12v supply. When the 3d printer is on, the fan is on. I always thought that the fan being controlled through G-Code was the fan cooling the bed after the print was finished. I'm now waiting for delivery of another hot end which will be my fourth upto now.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 4, 2013 5:55:58 GMT -5
What are you using the fan for?
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 3, 2013 19:26:35 GMT -5
Rotate the connector for the Y axis, that should correct it. Make sure the power is switched off though.
So, the axis will not move correctly after homing?
Polarity do not matter for these end stops.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 3, 2013 17:30:51 GMT -5
The firmware is expecting the endstop be connected to the Z+ connector on ramps while the other endstops are connected to X- and Y-. Are X and Y behaving oddly as well?
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 3, 2013 10:02:30 GMT -5
mikemaat
Happy New Year and all the best.
It's a shame we have not yet seen a demonstration of any of the Sumpod aluminium's claimed potential. It would be good to hear or read about some success stories of this machine.
Good look with your other projects.
Mark
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 3, 2013 9:49:05 GMT -5
If you cannot find the short, you can isolate the T0 trace by removing the capacitor and resister and the A13 pin.
You can now change the pin assignment for T0 in firmware. You can change the code so that T2 on the ramps board is the new T0. That means you will now be using T2 as the hot end thermistor connector.
Find the following code in the pins.h file in the firmware starting at line 297:
#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING #define TEMP_1_PIN 15 // ANALOG NUMBERING #define TEMP_2_PIN -1 // ANALOG NUMBERING #define HEATER_BED_PIN 8 // BED #define TEMP_BED_PIN 14 // ANALOG NUMBERING
And change it to the following:
#define TEMP_0_PIN 15 // 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING #define TEMP_1_PIN -1 // 15 // ANALOG NUMBERING #define TEMP_2_PIN -1 // ANALOG NUMBERING #define HEATER_BED_PIN 8 // BED #define TEMP_BED_PIN 14 // ANALOG NUMBERING
To test it, connect the thermistor to T2 and see what you get after connecting the usb.
I believe the ramps 1.4 is ramps 1.3 but with some surface mount components and extra capacitors. Getting the ramps 1.4 should not make any difference to your current set-up.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 2, 2013 9:59:48 GMT -5
There should not be a connection. The only connection to ground is through the thermistor when it is connected.
The only thing you can do now is to visually check the whole of the T0 trace to find the short.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 2, 2013 9:18:55 GMT -5
Looks like the probes might be shorting through the resistor. The + probe should be on the pads where you confirmed 0.15v. In the picture you have a probe on the wrong side of the resistor.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 1, 2013 21:25:51 GMT -5
Do a continuity test on traces that run close to the T0 trace between the resistor and the A13 pin. Have the + probe on the resister pad and use the other probe to test other pads that have traces next to the T0 trace. This is to find out if the T0 trace is connected to another trace that it shouldn't be.
Include In the test while + probe is on the resistor pad: Test both pins on the T1 connector. Test the T0 ground pin. Test the pins on the ramps board that plug into the arduino mega A12 and A14
Use the ramps schematic to find pads for testing with traces that run close or across the T0 trace.
All the best for the New Year.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 1, 2013 19:19:45 GMT -5
We needed 5v on both sides of the resistor to consider a wire bypass. It now looks like there is a short somewhere along the trace.
Step 1. In case you have not done so already, remove the capacitor and do the test again on the same points circled on the last image posted. We want to rule out the capacitor shorting the circuit to ground. If you still only get 0.15v then go to step 2.
Step 2. Using the last picture you posted, de-solder and remove the resistor leg where the big arrow is pointing. Then measure the voltage on that resistor leg while it is stuck up pointing away from the board while the other leg is still connected. We want to see if that resistor leg changes from 0.15v to 5v when it is not connected to the capacitor trace.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Dec 31, 2012 14:12:52 GMT -5
Check the image and confirm voltage levels at points marked. Also confirm what the voltage is at the question mark. I take it that you have not been able to do a continuity test on the trace between the capacitor and the resistor; and the T0 and the resistor. I use the test a lot when working on my own circuits. You can connect T0 and the capacitor to the resister with wire to bypass a faulty trace. Just solder the wire to the pads after adding the components. If the resister pad is faulty then adding the wires should restore the rest of the trace to 5v. If there is a short then nothing will change after adding the wires. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Dec 30, 2012 20:22:27 GMT -5
It's best just to remove the capacitor and measure the pad. No need to measure the capacitor itself. We just need to confirm that 5v is being at least supplied to the capacitor. Also, by removing the capacitor we can see if that makes a difference to the voltage level on the thermistor pin.
The resistor will need to remain soldered in place while you measure the solder pads for the capacitor and the T1 connector. You can also do a continuity test between solder pads that should be connected through traces when the ramps board is not powered.
We need to find out why the T0 connector is not getting 5v from the resistor when there is 5v across the resistor. The ramps board may have a faulty trace or pad, and we need to confirm that before we can fix it.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Dec 30, 2012 17:50:08 GMT -5
You are looking for the point where the voltage changes from 5v to nothing.
Check the positive side of the capacitor to see if there is 5v there. If that fails, remove the capacitor and measure the pad again. With 5v at the resistor you should be getting 5v at the capacitor and the T0 connector pin.
Desolder the T0 connector, clean the pads and do a measure on the pads. You should be getting 5V between the resistor and the T0 connector pin.
With the power disconnected, you can check the continuity between the connector pin and the resistor. If the continuity fails, there might be a fault on the trace and you might have bridge that gap between the resistor and the connector with a wire. But there should also be 5v supplying the capacitor as well.
|
|