|
Post by airtripper on Jan 13, 2013 19:54:12 GMT -5
I'm just finishing up on a Marlin firmware guide so hopefully will start printing with this new hot end in the next day or two. To be honest, I wished I ordered from hotends.com now. I'll see if I still feel the same after I've had a good look at it and completed testing. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 13, 2013 19:41:08 GMT -5
I would ask Richard if he would agree to supply you with just the MDF parts and screws so that you can get the electronic bits yourself.
With the MDF parts I would also ask for the lead screw rod with the nut to fit the Z axis MDF parts. These parts should be easy to supply without delay since they are not affected by import problems like with the electronics.
Mark
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 6, 2013 15:46:16 GMT -5
Your filament guide may end up like mirrored as well. However, if access is not a problem, the extruder will still fit the bolt holes on the printer on the back left side when looking from the front of the printer.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 6, 2013 15:19:10 GMT -5
No. You can just configure it like you do with the Z axis.
|
|
|
Forum
Jan 6, 2013 15:17:24 GMT -5
Post by airtripper on Jan 6, 2013 15:17:24 GMT -5
And so it is. No new post in it though, might still be read only.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 6, 2013 15:01:59 GMT -5
You have got the Y axis back to front. coordinates 0,0 is front left. So you need to plug your Y end stop in to the Y+ connector. and change the following:
// ENDSTOP SETTINGS: // Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR 1 #define Z_HOME_DIR 1
You will also have to change the Y axis stepper motor direction. You also need to make sure that #define Y_MAX_LENGTH is not bigger than the physical printable area.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 6, 2013 13:37:57 GMT -5
You do have a mirrored extruder! you must have an axis moving the wrong way with an end stop fixed at the wrong end.
Your bed would be the X axis while the hot end is on the Y axis. Homing will position the nozzle to the front left of the build area.
If there is an end stop positioned on the wrong side then you could re-connect the end stop to the + connector like you do with the z axis and then make the adjustment in firmware for end stop and stepper motor. You may have to invert or otherwise the stepper motor to make it go the right way.
Making these changes, like the Z axis, will make the axis in question home to the maximum position instead of 0 position.
Hope that makes sense.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 6, 2013 13:15:51 GMT -5
The latest Marlin firmware gives you more details on the 20x4 LCD interface, and you can set end stop pull ups for each of the end stops independently. Which I think it means you could mix mechanical end stops with electronic end stops. You might want the more accurate electronic end stop for the Z axis while keeping the mechanical ones for the X and Y axis. Beyond that, I'm not sure what else that would make a difference to me yet, I've only had a quick look. The stepstruder clone failed I think simply because the inside of the tube was too rough. It was just impossible to push to filament swell down to the melt chamber. I'm sure the hot end will work just fine for ABS but I prefer to use the greener no fumes PLA. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 6, 2013 12:59:27 GMT -5
The MK7 gear pulley fits perfectly in extruder v3. For the job it does, it is well worth the money and it is probably the best pulley available.
The link to the ebay item is where I got mine from a couple of weeks ago.
You may have to boost the amps a bit on the stepper driver board because the gear has a much larger diameter than the gear that come with the Sumpod.
If you do get this gear you can update the steps per unit to the following:
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {106.76, 106.76, 800, 48.14} // default steps per unit for ultimaker
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 6, 2013 9:42:04 GMT -5
I'll be posting a review of this hot end on the blog which will include set up details.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 6, 2013 9:35:44 GMT -5
The extruder and the strut look very good and usable. You just need to clean them up a bit with a sharp knife, some drill bits and a file or two.
No retraction was added to the g-code to control oozing, this is something you can experiment with yourself to suite your set up.
Before you press the print button in Pronterface, you need to load the nozzle by extruding some plastic. This will ensure the plastic will extrude at the beginning of the print. You should also home all axis immediately before you start the print because the filament will retract back to zero if you don't, which may responsible for the extruder retraction and 30 second extrusion delay.
As the print bed moves to meet the nozzle you will have time to give the nozzle a couple of wipes to remove ooze.
Temperature It looks like your filament might work better at a lower temperature after the first layer. It might reduce oozing. Try 180 degrees to start with.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 5, 2013 16:48:03 GMT -5
And here's the G-code for the extruder and axle combined in to one print. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 5, 2013 16:35:29 GMT -5
You could talk to your bank that issued the card.
Maybe Richard would prefer to transfer the refund directly to your bank, I'm sure there is no charge for that.
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 5, 2013 16:27:45 GMT -5
I posted some details here: sumpod.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=printtips&thread=16&page=2#161I don't think the stepstruder is the most ideal for PLA. It's more suited to ABS. I'm glad your 3d printer is working again. I got the latest Marlin firmware installed on mine now and I'll be working on a post about it. Here's a pic of the stepstruder clone that did not work for PLA on test. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by airtripper on Jan 5, 2013 16:12:20 GMT -5
I'm a big fan of skeinforge, it's all I use so far. However, Slic3r is looking a lot better since I last used it and might give it another go. Anyway, here is a G-code file to print the idler and strut in one go. layer height is 0.25mm. Just set the temperature yourself and it is good to go. Feed rate is 16mm/s and you can use this as a bench mark to judge from. Attachments:
|
|